GR 20 Corsica – the granite roller coaster Tapas and more: Madrid
Jan 132010

Imagine the place where money will buy you everything you’ve ever dreamt of…imagine the place where the smell of spices, the play of light and the sound of voices makes you realize you’re farther away from home then you’ve ever believed possible… imagine the place out of Arabian Nights…imagine the souks of Marrakech…

The souks make up the very heart of the Medina, and are renown among shoppers worldwide.  Lanterns, leather goods, babouches (Moroccan leather slippers), jewelry, shawls and everything in between are sold there. Prices and quality vary, but the majority of merchandise is of North African origin, and not imported “made in China” junk. The choice is enormous, and even the most self-restrained and conscious tourist will end up buying something she did not realize she needed until she saw it. When buying in the souks, remember that haggling is obligatory, and is supposed to be the highlight for both the seller and the buyer. If you’ve made a large purchase, you’re likely to be offered a cup of tea and a chair before the haggle begins, as the procedure might take a good part of an hour. Good haggle will bring the price 50 % down, and earn you respect, a handshake, or even a marriage proposal. Haggling is not only fun, but also a necessity for a budget-conscious – the same merchandise in government-run souvenir shops will cost you at least the double, and will deprive you of the possibility to interact with the locals.

The souks are maze-like, but contrary to what many guidebooks want you to believe, it is not at all difficult to find the way out, even though sometimes you might end up on the side opposite to where you’ve originally meant to exit. They are clean and safe to walk through, and the sellers are not as pushy as you might expect. Although some parts are rather touristy, in other parts you have the opportunity to mingle with the locals for whom the souks are their neighborhood grocery store.

Each part of the souks is dedicated to just one type of merchandise, like The babouches souk, The iron souk, The textile souk and even The egg souk, to name just a few. The produce on offer is often manufactured on the spot, and a person walking through the specific area can watch the craftsmen at work. Especially worth visiting are the dyers’ quarter, decorated with newly dyed fabrics and yarn hung up to dry, and the quarter of iron workers, where the ringing of dozens of hammer blows makes you think of Middle Ages.

There are people who dislike the souks for being too far from what we Westerners find comfortable – they find the alleys claustrophobic and chaotic, and the sellers too pushy. But Morocco is not a part of our Western world, and that is exactly what makes it so fascinating. The souks are the heart and soul of Marrakech, and visiting them is an absolute must. Cast away your prejudice, don’t rush, use your time, have fun, and let yourself be transported into Arabian Nights. Enter the world of your dreams… Enter the souks of Marrakech…

Waiting for dinner…

Still waiting for dinner…

Shopping for dinner…

The dinner…

Practicalities:

  • Map: there is no detailed map of the souks, but the one in Time Out Marrakech guidebook is very useful.
  • Guides: many tour companies offer guided tours to the souks, some include a service of a personal shopper who will haggle for you. If you really must take a guided tour, shop around and try to find a serious company – many freelance guides will take you to their friends’ shops, and, since they are offered a provision of the price, will not haggle too well.
  • Getting (un)lost: If you get lost, try to walk to the nearest exit, and then go around the souks. Or, go against the crowd, especially the tourist crowd – since they normally enter the souks at the Jemaa el Fna, going the way they came from will bring you back to the square. If you are REALLY lost, do not ask passer-byes to help you – they will demand money for the service, or guide you to their friends’ shop. Instead, ask a stall worker, who is unlikely to leave his shop to guide you, to explain you the way out.

My totally subjective ideas of what to buy:

  • Cosmetic argan oil – 60 ml costs 50 DH – the bottle lasts forever, and works wonders for oily complexion.
  • Vegetable silk shawls – there are stalls that sell only those, and the choice is overwhelming. My mom and I bought 11 in total, and I haggled the price from 2200 DH to 1100 DH. The haggle took an hour, and earned me a marriage proposal.
  • Lanterns – they are beautiful, and a kind of souvenir that actually can be used in everyday life. I placed a light bulb in mine, and it looks very romantic, with light sipping through the multi-colored glass.
  • Silver jewelry – most pieces are inspired by beautiful Islamic flowery ornamentation.

One Response to “The matter of love and hate – the souks of Marrakech”

  1. Louise says:

    Very nice blog, it really makes me look forward to my first trip to Morocco in two weeks time! I absolutely love the third photo from the bottom, it’s not easy to catch that atmosphere on camera. Thanks for sharing!